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Joseph Phelps, Napa Wine Innovator, sterf

Joseph Phelps, Napa Wine Innovator, sterf


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Joseph Phelps, wat verlede week in sy huis in St.

Ek het hom die eerste keer in die laat sewentigerjare ontmoet, 'n halfdosyn jaar nadat hy sy nuwe kelder in 1973 begin het. op eienaar, wat hom in die wynbedryf verdiep het, maar ook die helderste jong wynmakers en wingerdmakers gehuur het en hulle laat geld het vir nuwe toerusting, nuutste kelders en hektaar versorgde wingerdstokke.

Onder sy vroeë aanstellings was 'n bemarkingshoof genaamd Bruce Neyers, 'n vriend van my uit Back East wat nou sy eie wynmakery het en saam met die invloedryke invoerder Kermit Lynch werk, en Walter Schug, 'n gegradueerde van die Duitse gesogte Geisenheim Wine Institute, as wynmaker. Kalifornië was in daardie dae warm op variëteitwyne, en Phelps het Schug die eerste soorte syrah van die staat laat maak, alhoewel Schug se kundigheid meer was met riesling en ander witwyne.

Ek was destyds 'n vryskut wynkritikus vir laat Washington Star, en het die Phelps -wynmakery besoek net voor die wyn vrygestel is. Ek en Phelps het by Schug in die kelder aangesluit om die syrah te proe. Ons het almal die wyn gesnuffel, daarna het Schug teug, ingedruk en sy wyn uitgespoeg. Phelps sak syne met 'n grynslag neer. 'Ek is nuut,' het hy gesê, 'en ek het nog nie geleer hoe om behoorlik te spoeg nie!'

Gedurende die 1980's en 1990's het die reputasie van Joseph Phelps Vineyard gegroei vir kwaliteit en innovasie. Alhoewel Napa besig was om ondergedompel te word in enkel-wingerdwyne, was Phelps volgens die Franse model een van die eerstes met 'n ikoniese Bordeaux-beïnvloedde rooi versnit, Insigna, wat 'n maatstaf geword het vir latere hoogstaande Napa-versnitte. Aan die ander kant het Phelps 'n tyd lank die vervaagde Napa -neiging gevolg om 'n verskeidenheid variëteitwyne te produseer in plaas van te konsentreer op cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay en een of twee ander druiwe. Hy was ook 'n baanbreker in die verbouing van ander Rhône -variëteite, benewens syrah. Later het hy in die Sonoma -kus belê om plekke te soek om pinot noir te verbou.

Phelps en sy kollegas het egter invloede gehad buite wynmaak. Hulle het groot gedink en groot spandeer. Terwyl hulle hul wortels in Napa Valley gevestig het, het hulle goeie restaurante en duur winkels geëis sonder om altyd na San Francisco te kyk. Hulle het leiers geword van die liefdadigheids- en nie-winsgewende toneel waarvoor die vallei nou bekend is. Phelps se grootste nie-wynbydrae tot die Napa-toneel was sy opknapping van die legendariese Oakville-kruideniersware as verskaffer van lekker kos en fynproewers. Dit is nog steeds 'n uitdaging om laatmiddag 'n parkeerplek by die kruideniersware te kry, en die winkel self, met die vetrooi rooi Coke -sirkel aan die kant, word lankal as 'n 'moet' toeriste -stop beskou.

Joe Phelps tree af met sy nalatenskap ongeskonde en laat sy seun Bill aan die stuur. As 'n volmaakte sakeman wat 'n passie in alle opsigte in 'n suksesvolle onderneming verander het, het hy beslis geleer wanneer om te spoeg en wanneer nie.


Thomas Shelton - verligting van die wynbedryf in Napa

Foto van Tom Shelton (links) van Joseph Phelps Vineyards en Joel Aiken (regs), raadspresident van die Napa Valley Vintners. Wynmakers van Champagne, Portugal, Washington, Oregon en Kalifornië vergader om 'n verklaring van gesamentlike skoolhoofde op te stel oor die noodsaaklikheid om die oorsprong van wyn te beskerm. Wingerde is bekommerd oor die verkeerde etikettering van wyne, soos handelsmerke wat nie Napa Valley -druiwe gebruik nie, gebruik 'Napa' as deel van hul naammerk. Vergadering soos by Copia. Craig Lee/SFC

Thomas Howell Shelton, 'n voormalige uitvoerende hoof van Joseph Phelps Vineyards in St. Helena, wat aktief binne die wynbedryf plaaslik en in die hele land bedrywig was, is Saterdag dood aan breinkanker in sy huis in Calistoga. Hy was 55.

Mnr. Shelton, wat grootgeword het in Alexandria, Va., Het sy loopbaan in wynverkope by plaaslike wyn- en drankwinkels begin. Hy verhuis in 1984 na die Weskus en werk by Vintage Wine Merchants in San Francisco.

Shelton was 'n visepresident by Franciscan Vineyards en Guenoc voordat hy in 1994 na Joseph Phelps verhuis het.

'Tom was 15 jaar lank 'n baie belangrike deel van ons span,' sê Bill Phelps, voorsitter van die direksie van Joseph Phelps.

Shelton is in 1995 aangewys as president en hoof uitvoerende beampte van Joseph Phelps Vineyards. -na wyne.

Maar sy invloed strek verder as die wynmure. Shelton was vier jaar lank in die direksie van die Napa Valley Vintners en dien as president in 1999. Hy was ook voorsitter van verskeie komitees en geleenthede, waaronder die wynveiling van Napa Valley, een van die gebied se voorste liefdadigheidsinsamelingsgeleenthede in die gebied.

Meer onlangs was mnr. Shelton aktief in Kalifornië se wingerde se pogings om die wette op die gebied van wynvervoer te hervorm, wat uiteindelik gelei het tot die uitspraak van die Amerikaanse hooggeregshof in 2005 in die guns van die wynboere.

Benewens sy liefde vir wyn, was Shelton passievol oor gholf, ski, fietsry, kitaar en lees.


CAMi Wingerde

CAMi Wingerde is gestig deur 'n lang inwoner van die Napa, Laurie Shelton, met haar eerste wyn uit 2013. Haar produksie is taamlik klein, gewoonlik onder 200 kaste van haar klein wingerd van 2,5 hektaar in die suidelike deel van die Calistoga -appellasie langs die Silverado -roete. Toe sy en haar man destyds Tom Shelton (oorlede in 2008) die eiendom in 2009 gekoop het, het daar reeds Merlot -wingerdstokke op die perseel gegroei. Tom was goed gerespekteer in die bedryf. Sy loopbaan met wyn begin in 1984 in San Francisco en werk by Vintage Wine Merchants. Toe werk hy vir Franciscan Vineyards as vise -president van verkope en bemarking en was hy 'n kort rukkie by Guenoc Winery (in Lake County). Maar dit was sy tyd by Joseph Phelps waarvoor hy die meeste onthou sal word (hy was jare lank president en uitvoerende hoof van die wynmakery). En hy het ook vir 5 jaar in die raad van direkteure van die Napa Vintners gedien. Hy is op 55 -jarige ouderdom dood aan jong (aan breinkanker).

Die wyn is vernoem na Laurie en Tom se dogter Cami. Toe Laurie swanger was, het verskeie vriende uit Montreal by die wyninvoerders, Charles en Sylvie Goyer, gekuier. Laurie het Charles op 'n aand na sy dogter geroep terwyl sy tussen die wingerdstokke gespeel het. “Cami, Cami ”, bel hy – kort vir Camille. Laurie het die idee gehad om haar dogter Cami te noem, maar Charles het gesê dat dit haar naam moet wees, eerder Camille. En so was dit.

Laurie is al baie jare betrokke by die wynwêreld. Sy is gebore en getoë in Ann Harbor, Michigan, en onthou dat haar kinderjare gewortel was in landbou met somerverblyf op haar grootouers se plase. Sy het eers by die wynmakelaar McKnight Marketing in Florida begin werk, waar sy 'n aantal handelsmerke verteenwoordig het, waaronder een van Napa se ouer etikette, Tulocay. Dit was haar werk hier waarmee sy Tom kon ontmoet.

Behalwe haar rol by CAMi, is Laurie ook 'n ekspressionistiese skilder wat haar tyd tussen Palo Alto en haar Calistoga -eiendom verdeel. Sy gee toe dat sy 'n spesifieke artistieke fassinasie vir koeie het, en 'n aantal van haar stukke bevat beeste en ander plaasdiere.

Dit was die droom van Laurie om jare lank wyn te maak, en toe Tom nog geleef het, het hulle selfs 'n etiket uitgesoek en vir drie jaar lank 'n tuiswyn gemaak by die Judds Hill mikrokruiswinkel ('n vat wyn van druiwe uit hul eiendom). Vir 'n aantal jare verkoop hulle die vrugte aan uitgesoekte wynkelders. Uiteindelik was die tydsberekening reg, dus ongeveer 13 jaar nadat Cami gebore is, is CAMi Wines gestig met die eerste oesjaar van 2013. Die fokus is op 'n enkele wyn wat die landgoed se wingerde verteenwoordig, waarvan 2,5 hektaar groot is ewe verdeel tussen Cabernet Sauvignon en Merlot (die hele eiendom is ongeveer 5 hektaar).

Die Merlot het die onderskeid dat dit afkomstig is van dieselfde steggies wat gebruik is om die ikoniese Three Palms Vineyard (effens noord van Laurie se eiendom) te plant, en dit is in 1994 geplant deur Paul Saviez van Saviez Vineyard Management en hul Cabernet Sauvignon (kloon 337) is in 2005 herplant – uit steggies wat by Silverado Vineyards in die Stags Leap -distrik geneem is.

Vandag is die wingerdstokke onder die bekwame hande van Piña Vineyard Management, regstreeks bestuur deur Justin Leigon. Die wynmaker John Giannini vervaardig die wyne sedert 2014. Laurie het John die eerste keer ontmoet toe hy 'n sous-chef de cuisine was by Terra Restaurant in St. Helena (nou gesluit). Sonder 'n formele opleiding in wynkunde het John die kuns van wynmaak uit boeke en uit die praktyk geleer. Met sy kulinêre agtergrond het hy resepteboeke uiters prakties gevind en beklemtoon watter bestanddele u moet gebruik en hoe om sekere geregte te maak. Met die maak van wyn het hy gevind dat daar geen resep, geen formule is nie, en die belangrikste hulp was die werk in die kelder en wingerd - met perspektief op meer as 'n dekade van wynmaak.

Hy het 'n goeie mentor gehad deur 'n gemeenskaplike vriend wat aan die bekroonde wynmaker Thomas Brown voorgestel is. Thomas het hom in 2003 aangestel om te help met kelderwerk - teen 2007 is hy bevorder tot voltydse assistent -wynmaker by Outpost Winery, insluitend om wyn te maak vir Thomas se ander premiumkliënte.

John vat fermenteer al die wyne en verouder dan in dieselfde vate. Hy het geen formule oor hoeveel nuwe Franse eikehout gebruik word nie, maar hy verkies om die oesjaar te laat bepaal, hoewel hy dikwels 70-90% nuwe Franse eikehout gebruik. Sy filosofie is om die wingerdstreek die beste uit te druk en meng nie in vrugte van nie-landgoed. Die wyne word ongegrond en ongefiltreer gebottel.

Alhoewel dit 'n Laurie -projek is, is dit ook 'n huldeblyk aan Tom Shelton. En die seun van Tom ’, Trevor Mansfield, is ook van ver af betrokke, gebore met wanhopigheid, hy is 'n modefotograaf wie se reise hom van Asië na Europa geneem het (waar hy Spanje tans tuis noem). Sy fotografie van verskillende dele van die wingerd word op elke etiket van hul wyn gebruik en verander elke oesjaar. Sy werk met druiwetakke het verskeie interessante etikette geskep. En vir elke oesjaar is hy verantwoordelik vir die keuse van 'n spesifieke aanhaling vir die agterkant ('n huldeblyk aan Tom, wat graag gedigte gelees het, insluitend gedigte van Robert Frost). En hul eerste vrystelling in 2013 bevat 'n gedig wat Trevor geskryf het, wat duidelik 'n baie persoonlike, kragtige en aangrypende huldeblyk aan sy vader is:

Die vrugte het verby gegaan
Maar sy sappe floreer
Sy nalatenskap was nog nooit so lewendig nie
Land, lig en wind deur glas gegiet

Die gebottelde gees van die land
Onthou om te lag oor hierdie grafskrif
Vir die herinneringe nie vaal nie, maar groots
En as u proe, doen dit namens u
Nie van twis nie, maar van liefde vir die lewe. ”

Die rooiwyn van die CAMi Napa Valley Estate van 2014 bied pragtige geure, soms elegant en effens blommig (viooltjies en roosblare) met sederhout en tabakblaar en meer genuanseerde sekondêre geure. Propvol geur – soepel van begin tot einde met geure van swartbessie. 'N Lekkerheid, 'n tasbare sagtheid toon aan die afwerking, met vrugte, tikkies mokka, geroosterde eikehout en 'n donkerder speserye. Maklik om te drink.

Die rooiwyn van die CAMi Napa Valley Estate 2015. Karmozijnrooi op die rand en donker in die kern, weelderige en vrugtige geurmiddels maak dit 'n wyn waarvan jy dadelik 'n slukkie wil neem. Helder geurmiddels toon ryp seunsbessie, swartbessie, pittige pruim, ou sederboks en kaneelstrepe. Terwyl die wyn bly asemhaal, word meer subtiele geure van bruinsuiker onthul. Hierdie wyn is baie goed saamgestel en hierdie wyn is naatloos oor die smaak. Donker vrugte – swartbessie, getinte met geroosterde vanielje en eikebome op die afwerking. Glad en soepel, die integrasie van die effens stowwerige en houtagtige tanniene en die vrugte bly lank. Baie toeganklik in sy jeug.

Ons het gehoor oor 'n aantal nadelige gevare vir wingerdstokke deur die jare, en soms dat wingerdstokke af en toe vernietig word as 'n mens deur 'n trekker getref word. Maar dit is die eerste: een van die skynbare gevare van 'n wingerd langs die Silverado -roete is verwoesting van motors wat in die verlede in die lug geraak het nadat hulle te vinnig die draai langs die noordelikste deel van hul wingerd geneem het. Een so 'n voertuig het ongeveer 40 wingerdstokke op die rand van hul wingerd gehaal nadat die motor se bestuurder deur hul wingerd geploeg het.

CAMi -proelokaal/kunsgalery, Calistoga
In 2019 koop Laurie 'n gebou by 1333B Lincoln Ave in die sentrum van Calistoga en omskep dit in The CAMi Art Gallery & Proelokaal. Die galery is geopen in Junie 2019 en#8211 en in Augustus 2019 is dit oopgemaak vir wynproeë gedurende geselekteerde ure. Baie sitplekke binne met wyne ook beskikbaar by die klein kroeg agterin (verskeie sjokolade kan ook saam met die wyne gekombineer word). Die kunswerke wat op die mure vertoon word, is te koop.


Ikone en vernuwers: Joseph Phelps Vineyards: Revolutionary Reds

Ons argetipiese beeld van 'n radikaal is dikwels in stryd met die werklikheid, soos die vroeë Amerikaanse geskiedenis aantoon: Revolusie op hierdie kontinent is aanvanklik aangevuur deur nie ideale wat tot 'n koorsagtige hitte in die troebel ketel van die proletariaat verhit is nie, maar grootliks op die netjiese oppervlakte en in die geordende gedagtes van boere, waarvan sommige toevallig die gentleman -onderwerp van politieke filosofie bestudeer het, om nog maar te praat van die minder gentlemanly law arts. Hierdie Amerikaanse motief van boer wat professioneel geword het, word radikaal, herhaal homself in ons eeu met veel minder gevolge vir die verloop van menslike gebeurtenisse, alhoewel dit van groot betekenis is vir die les van menslike dors en die persoon van Joseph Phelps, wat in die vroeë sewentigerjare stilweg 'n rewolusie gemaak het die maak van Amerikaanse wyn. (Klik op die prent om te vergroot)

Phelps, gebore en getoë op 'n plaas, studeer ingenieurswese aan die kollege, en nadat hy drie jaar as vlootbeampte gedien het tydens die Koreaanse Oorlog, het hy by sy pa & rsquos -konstruksiemaatskappy, Hensel Phelps, in Greeley, Colo aangesluit. Gedurende sy vroeë loopbaan as kontrakteur, die jong Phelps het sy passie as wynversamelaar nagestreef en selfs geëksperimenteer met wynmaak. Sy status het in die vroeë sewentigerjare skielik verander van amateur tot professioneel, toe die familiebedryf aangestel is om die Souverain Winery in Napa Valley te bou. As gevolg van die natuurlike skoonheid van die landskap, sy klimaat en grond, het Phelps 'n stuk grond oos van die Silverado -roete gekoop wat Joseph Phelps Wingerde sou word. Sy onderneming sou binnekort bekendheid verwerf vir sy uitstekende Cabernet Sauvignons, hoewel die oorheersende kleurpalet van die eiendom in die begin nie rooi was nie, maar wit, aangesien gewilde smaak destyds in die rigting van Riesling en Gew & uumlrztraminer was. Phelps was egter 'n bewonderaar van Rh & ocircne -wyne, en in 'n radikale afwyking van die norm, het hy die eerste wynboer in die land geword wat Syrah verbou het, wat hy met die 1974 -oesjaar bekendgestel het.

Die Backus-enkel wingerd Cabernet Sauvignon (tweede van links) vang die essensie

van Napa & rsquos Oakville -benaming, terwyl Ovation Chardonnay (links) en Fogdog Pinot Noir (regs) die style van onderskeidelik Carneros en die Sonoma -kus uitdruk. Foto deur Cordero Studios/www.corderostudios.com (Klik op die prent om te vergroot)

Dieselfde jaar het Phelps nog 'n belangrike besluit geneem en mdashone wat die manier waarop Napa Valley oor rooiwyn sou dink, sou verander: Hy het besluit om die Bordelais na te volg deur 'n eie rooi versnit van Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot en Petit Verdot, die komposisie, te maak. waarvan die van oesjaar na oesjaar sou verander volgens die kwaliteit en karakter van die komponentwyne. Wat tans 'n standaardpraktyk is, het destyds kontroversie veroorsaak, veral omdat die wynkopers vir die destydse hoë prys van $ 12 per bottel verwag het om te weet watter variëteit dit drink.

Onder die leiding van die wynmaker Walter Schug en Craig Williams en mdashwho het hom in 1976 as assistent-wynmaker by Joseph Phelps Vineyards aangesluit nadat Davis aan die Universiteit van Kalifornië gegradueer het, het Davis met 'n graad in fermentasie-wetenskap en mdashthis wyn, die standaarddraer geword vir 'n hele kategorie Rooiwyne van Kalifornië. Insignia is egter nie net die land se oudste versnit in Bordeaux-styl nie, maar ook een van die mees uitstaande. Selfs in uitdagende jare, soos 1998 en 2000, vertoon die wyn dieselfde krag en ongewone karakterrykheid in klassieke oesjare as 1987, 1994 en 1997.

In 1995 het Phelps Tom Shelton aangestel as president en uitvoerende hoof van Joseph Phelps Vineyards. Shelton en Craig Williams (nou senior vise -president en direkteur van wynmaak) het Phelps se passie vir kwaliteit en innovasie gehandhaaf, beide as bestuurders van die landgoed en as wynrevolusionêre in eie reg. Williams en Shelton het die afgelope dekade die produksie van die Napa-eiendomme verskuif om die rooi Bordeaux-variëteite te beklemtoon, terwyl hulle terselfdertyd die handelsmerk na Sonoma County uitgebrei het met die verkryging van Quail Hill Ranch en Freestone Flat, waar hulle 100 hektaar Chardonnay en Pinot Noir geplant, waarvan laasgenoemde pas as Fogdog 2004 vrygestel is (sien & ldquoFantastic Four, & rdquo bladsy 220). Onlangs het Shelton en Williams met Robb Report die unieke eienskappe bespreek wat Joseph Phelps Vineyards definieer en hul benadering tot wynmaak in 'n mark wat voortdurend ontwikkel.

RR: Wat definieer Joseph Phelps Wingerde?

Tom Shelton: Die onderneming het ontwikkel in 'n rigting wat die afgelope 20 jaar redelik konsekwent was. En die essensie van die evolusie is om werklik te ontdek wat ons die beste doen, gegewe die spesifieke aard van die plek waarmee ons werk en die plaaslike kenmerke daarvan. Ons onderneming was alles behalwe staties. Craig pas voortdurend sy wynmaaktegniek, indien nie styl nie, aan by die gegewe oesjare. Ons het dus 'n wonderlike doek in ons wingerde, maar ons het ook 'n wonderlike kunstenaar. En dit is 'n kombinasie van die twee dinge wat die styl van Joseph Phelps -wyne skep. Craig Williams: Ek dink Joe [Joseph Phelps] is 'n bouer, en mdashhe & rsquos het nog steeds 'n harde hoed gekry van sy voormalige onderneming [Hensel Phelps Construction], wat hy terug verkoop het in & rsquo83. En ek dink dat hy dit altyd in die wynbou -arena waardeer het. Dertig jaar gelede was hierdie mark 'n mark waarin wyn gemaak is uit verskillende bronne sowel as verskillende variëteite. Joe & rsquos se genie was om na die streek te kyk en om te sien dat die kworegionaliteit en die idee om 'n boer te wees. & Rsquo Daar was miskien 30 wynkelders hier toe hy in die vallei kom. Hulle het druiwe by produsente gekoop. Maar Joe & rsquos se visie as 'n pionier was om innoverend te wees, nie net met dinge soos Syrah en Insignia nie, maar om die wyne te ontwikkel tot 'lsquoplace -wyne' wat verwysingspunte is vir die vallei en die Amerikaanse wynbedryf. [Insignia] is groter as die som van sy dele: Dit definieer nie net die wyn in terme van die versnit nie, maar ook die spanaspek van die onderneming. Ons hou van Insignia en is groter as die som van ons onderdele. En al ons energie is gefokus op die ontwikkeling van die streek en die plek van ons wingerde.

RR: Dink u dat dit regverdig is om te sê dat meer wynmakers wyne produseer wat hul kwaliteit en meer kwaliteit uitdruk, eerder as om aan die smaak van die verbruiker te voldoen?

TS: Ons kan nie meer die mark jaag nie. As die mark na Merlot draai, soos 'n paar jaar gelede, is ons nie regtig in staat om uit te gaan en ons hele rigting te verander nie. Ons het in wese besluit dat ons die plek, die streek waar ons gevestig het, die geleenthede sou bepaal. Craig moet interpreteer wat die geleenthede is vanuit die oogpunt van druiwe en produksie. En aan die bemarkingskant probeer ek om die boodskap na die mark te bring dat dit egte wyne is, en ons hoop dat die mark saam met ons sal kom. Die feit dat ons suksesvol was, meen ek, bevestig wat die span aan die produksiekant en die wingerdkant doen.

Joseph Phelps het sy oorspronklike Spring Valley -wingerde geplant en mdashnow bekend vir Cabernet Sauvignon en mdash met soetwit variëteite, soos Riesling. (Klik op die prent om te vergroot)

CW: Iemand het my onlangs gevra of Syrah nie goed vaar in Napa nie. En dit doen goed, ek weet. Maar ek dink nie dit is so goed soos Cabernet nie. Die verbruikers- en wynkritici het bevestig dat ons [Cabernet Sauvignons] eienskappe van wêreldgehalte het wat nêrens anders gevind kan word nie. Waarom sou Syrah hier wees as daar nie genoeg van hierdie wonderlike wyn is om vir die wêreld se behoefte te gaan nie? Napa-vallei self is ongeveer 'n agtste so groot soos Bordeaux. Maar wat dit produseer, is baie gevolglik, baie belangrik en baie wenslik. Waarom iets anders gaan jaag wat goed kan wees, maar nie wonderlik is nie? Dit was die waardering wat ons daartoe gelei het om te sê: & ldquo Wel, as ons Chardonnay wil maak, laat ons dan & rsquos die webwerf vind wat ons die geleentheid sal gee om iets te maak in ons Cabernet in Napa Valley. & Rdquo En dit het ons na Sonoma gelei . Ons was meer gedissiplineerd en meer gespesialiseerd.

Vandag is ons in wese 90 persent Bordeaux -variëteite en was dit tien jaar gelede selfs al was ons wonderlike dinge met Insignia. Insignia is 'n samestelling van nie net een wingerd nie, maar wingerde in die Napa -vallei wat hierdie mikroklimaat en verskillende grondsoorte op 'n baie diep manier benut. Hier het ons 'n unieke kombinasie van sonstraling, geologie, reënval en hierdie daaglikse temperatuur en ongelooflike warm dae en koel nagte wat 'n opskudding in die druiwe veroorsaak van 'n geweldige konsentrasie van kleur en tanniene wat nie regtig elders in die land aangetref word nie. wêreld, na my mening. En ons het daarin ingespan.

RR: Hoe het u benadering verander sedert Joseph Phelps Vineyards gestig is?

TS: Ons het waarskynlik op die harde manier geleer dat ons die beste geleentheid in die bedryf is met die luukse, premium -kategorie. Ons het nie die doeltreffendheid in produksie en koste om mee te ding met die kwaliteit van wyne wat in die laer prysklasse geproduseer word nie. Ons was in die verlede in die kategorieë. 'N Deel van ons sukses as 'n onderneming was om 'n paar van hierdie kategorieë wat ons gedink het 10 of 15 jaar gelede na geleenthede gelyk het, te laat vaar. Ek sê nie dat ons standaard in die luukse mark beland het nie, want dit sou verkeerd wees. Almal van ons het 'n passie vir goeie wyn, en daarom is ons geneig om in daardie rigting te beweeg. Maar as u na die besigheidsomgewing kyk, dink ek nie dat ons regtig 'n keuse gehad het nie. Dit was óf in daardie rigting beweeg en slaag, óf verswelg en misluk êrens anders. Ek dink ons ​​het daardie waters baie goed bestuur. En ek dink, as u na die toekoms kyk, en as ons 'n onafhanklike onderneming wil bly slaag, sal ons in 'n paar taai, onstuimige waters moet voortgaan. Ons ding mee met & mdashdare I say it? & Mdashhobbyists. Ons kompeteer teen entiteite waar die winsmotief sekondêr kan wees as ander motiewe. Ons bedryf 'n ernstige onderneming hier, en mdashit en rsquos is nie 'n stokperdjie nie. Tog verwag ons dat ons wyne op die hoogste gehalte sal meeding. (Klik op die prent om te vergroot)

RR: Joseph Phelps het 'n belangrike rol gespeel in die vestiging van die Napa -vallei en die reputasie van rsquos vir die vervaardiging van uitstekende Cabernet Sauvignon. Is die bekendstelling van u Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, Fogdog, 'n aanduiding dat u glo dat dieselfde potensiaal in Kalifornië vir Pinot Noir bestaan?

TS: Dit is moeilik vir ons om die hande te kry oor wat California Pinot nou is, want selfs onder dieselfde produsente vind ek jaar na jaar sterk verskille in styl. Ek dink wat kwaliteit definieer, was ietwat ontwykend. Ons werk nou hard daaraan met ons [Sonoma] eiendom. RR: Wat is die maatstaf vir sukses? Hoe sal u weet dat u 'n suksesvolle benadering vir die spesifieke druif gevind het?

TS: [Lag] Dit lyk soos die definisie van pornografie: ek kan jou vertel wat dit is, maar ek weet dit as ek dit sien. Craig het waarskynlik 'n baie meer wetenskaplike antwoord as dit. Ek hou van wyne met meer geur, miskien ligter lyf as wat ons in Kalifornië sien. Ons is geneig om hierdie baie gewigtige Pinot Noirs te kry wat 'n groot telling behaal, wat my altyd verbaas omdat ek dit nie baie aangenaam vind nie, om eerlik te wees met u. Maar ons dink [Pinot] het 'n fantastiese potensiaal. Ons vind klimate waar u daarmee kan werk, en weer moet ons die werwe laat aflewer. Ons moet 'n beter verwysing hê na wat kwaliteit in Pinot Noir is, en ons moet beslis daar kom en mdashwe en rsquore daar kom.

RR: Wat is die toekoms vir Joseph Phelps? Wat sal jy graag in die volgende 50 jaar wil sien?

TS: Toenemende spesialisasie en aanhou vorder in die wingerd en in die wynmaakprosesse. Die verfyning van die Insignia-handelsmerk en veral die Joseph Phelps Cabernet is die dinge waaraan ons baie hard gaan werk. En ons groei kom deur nuwe idees en nie noodwendig nuwe idees in Napa Valley nie, maar nuwe idees op ander plekke, soos Freestone, aan die Sonoma -kus, waar ons 'n soortgelyke benadering volg as Pinot Noir en Chardonnay. Ek sê graag dat ons ons onderneming laat groei deur dit klein te maak: wat die totale produksie betref, verminder ons die grootte van ons kelder eintlik, maar ons verhoog die verkope. Die mark ondersteun en bekragtig ons keuses tot dusver.

CW: Dit is hoekom ons getrou moet bly aan die regionaliteit, want as ons dit nie doen nie, verloor ons die veeleisende eienskappe in die wyn. Amerikaanse verbruikers waardeer die gereeldheid van wyn, en ons wil die streep verhoog oor die regionaliteit, nie net met wat ons in Napa doen nie, maar ook nou in Sonoma. Dit sal beslis die moeite vir die volgende 50 jaar vir die Phelps -gesin wees.

Joseph Phelps Wingerde

Fantastiese Vier

'N Kwartet van onlangs vrygestelde meesterwerke van Joseph Phelps Vineyards.

Insignia 2003

Hierdie wyn vorm die grondslag van Joseph Phelps Vineyards se reputasie vir sy uitstekende Cabernet Sauvignon, hoewel die versnit ook 10 persent Petit Verdot en 3 persent elk van Merlot en Malbec bevat. Die 2003 -oesjaar het 'n kragtig ontwikkelde struktuur onder sensuele swartbessie, pruim, drop en rokerige eikebome. ($ 165) (Klik op die prent om te vergroot)

Backus Napa Valley Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon 2003

Hierdie diep pers rooiwyn, vervaardig uit 100 persent Cabernet Sauvignon van die Backus Vineyard, het ryk aroma van swartbessie, kakao en aarde, terwyl dit die smaak van soet, digte swartbessie en syagtige tanniene bedek. ($ 200)

Fogdog Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2004

Die naam vir hierdie Pinot Noir is afgelei van die term wat helder ligpunte beskryf wat deur die mis langs die Sonoma -kus breek, waar die wyn verbou word. Hierdie heerlike helderrooi oorvloedige, ongeslypte en ongefiltreerde oorvloed met soet kersie en aarbei word meer pikant gemaak deur noties van naeltjie en gemmer, sowel as aardse sampioen. ($ 35)

Ovation Chardonnay Los Carneros 2004

Die vlagskip Chardonnay van die landgoed en rsquos, hierdie koel klimaatwit, vertoon 'n ryk artikulasie van heuningdauw, lemoenskil en perske, beklemtoon deur soet karamel-toffie, haselneut en minerale note. ($ 50)


Joseph Phelps het nogal 'n wynstyl opgebou

Ek het 'n jaar gelede 'n slukkie of twee van die ikoniese Insignia van Joseph Phelps Vineyards geneem tydens 'n wynproe, en die smaak het my lankal bygebly. Dit is 'n pragtige rooi in Bordeaux-styl uit Napa Valley.

Insignia verkoop vir $ 159 vir die 2008 -oesjaar tot $ 259 per bottel vir meer onlangse uitgawes. Ouer oesjare haal gereeld groot dollars op 'n veiling. Die wêreldbekende deskundige Robert Parker Jr. het Insignia drie perfekte 100-punte toegeken vir die jaargang 1991, 1997 en 2002.

Wat ek geleer het van Phelps -wyne, is dat hulle sorgvuldig vervaardig is van druiwe wat in Napa Valley en die westelike Sonoma County naby die Stille Oseaan verbou word.

Onlangs het ek twee Joseph Phelps Vineyards -wyne geproe wat meer in my prysklas was: die 2015 Chardonnay en die 2014 Pinot Noir van die familie se Freestone -wingerde. Elke wyn verkoop vir $ 55, maar dit is nou te koop tot 2 Julie by New Hampshire -wynverkope vir $ 44,99.

Freestone, wat Quarter Moon en Pastorale -wingerde insluit, is koeler groeiplekke wat agt kilometer van die see geleë is. Hier kry die druiwe baie warm, sonnige blootstellings en word dit ryp. Hulle word ook snags afgekoel deur sagte seebries, wat help om suurheid te ontwikkel. In die algemeen is dit 'n perfekte mesoklimaat om gebalanseerde vrugte te verkry.

Hier is 'n bietjie geskiedenis. Joseph Phelps was die eienaar van 'n baie suksesvolle Colorado -konstruksiemaatskappy toe hy 'n winkel in Napa Valley in 1973 begin het. Hy het byna 390 hektaar bekom en agt wingerde opgebou. Hy was die eerste om kwaliteit Syrah aan die Kaliforniese mark bekend te stel. Sy baanbrekersinstinkte het egter nooit bedaar nie. Teen die middel van die negentigerjare het Phelps die westelike kus van Sonoma County verken vir wingerdplekke. In 1999 vestig hy hom op koeiweidings in die klein dorpie Freestone, waar hy 100 hektaar gekoop het.

Phelps het in 1986 die wynbedryf bedank en sy bedrywighede aan sy drie dogters en seun oorgegee. Hy sterf in 2015 op 87. Sy nalatenskap van harde werk en ondernemingsgees leef voort by sy kinders, wat steeds innoveer en kwaliteit verbeter.

Vandag se wyne van Freestone het 'n kenmerkende minerale seesout eienskap. Met die viering van 4 Julie, is dit wyne van topgehalte wat u moet oorweeg vir 'n viering van die onafhanklikheidsdag.


VOEDSEL Syrah herontdek

Omar Khayyam en 'n glas wyn in die Rubaiyat was amper seker gevul met wyn gemaak van shiraz.

Na jare van relatiewe onduidelikheid, geniet shiraz - of syrah, soos dit in 'n groot deel van die moderne wêreld genoem word - iets van 'n terugkeer. In Australië, waar dit nog steeds shiraz genoem word, is dit wyd geplant in die 19de eeu en is dit steeds die dominante rooiwyndruif van die land. Innoveerders in Kalifornië hou daarvan en selfs die Franse het 'n groter respek daarvoor ontwikkel. Beide in Kalifornië en Frankryk is dit syrah.

In French vineyards, it has to share the spotlight with pinot noir, mourvedre, nebbiolo and other recent rediscoveries. But they are crass arrivistes compared with the lordly syrah. Alexis Lichine, who was usually accurate about such matters, suggested that returning Crusaders had brought the syrah grape to Europe. Hy was verkeerd. The Crusaders did get to Persopolis, which is not far from Shiraz, the Persian city after which the grape was originally named. But most scholars now believe that the grape was brought to Europe from Asia Minor by the Phocaen Greek seamen who founded Marseilles around 600 B.C., and that it was cultivated by them and later by the Romans.

The terraced vineyards of the Cote-Rotie, visible from the high-speed T.G.V. trains racing between Paris and the Riviera, have changed little since Roman farmers carved them out of the steep hills along the Rhone, just south of Lyon. Wines from those precious slopes were virtually ignored for nearly a millenium. With the emergence of the church as the guardian of the vine in the Middle Ages, attention was diverted to pinot noir, which was very popular in Burgundy monasteries. The ascendancy of the papacy at Avignon left a great architectural heritage and contributed to the improvement of the wines of the southern Rhone, including the one now known as Chateauneuf-du-Pape. But the northern Rhone, stretching from the Cote-Rotie to Hermitage and Cornas, slumbered on in relative obscurity. And this is where the syrah has always been the king of grapes.

Even the wine boom of the late 1960's and early 70's had little effect on the sleepy towns of Ampuis and Condrieu, of Tain-l'Hermitage and St.-Peray. Lack of marketing and the complexity of the wines meant that great syrahs were to be had for a fraction of the cost of well-known Bordeaux and Burgundies.

Which is what finally brought wine lovers to their senses -- and to an appreciation of the region and its powerful, immensely intense syrah-based wines. Today the superb Cote-Rotie and Hermitage of producers like Michel Chapoutier, Delas Freres, Domaine de la Guichard, Guigal and Jaboulet are ranked among the finest wines of the world -- and priced accordingly.

Syrah counts for little more than 3 percent of France's wine grape plantings. That's changing as growers in the hotter southern Rhone area discover that it adds body and flavor to Chateauneuf-du-Pape and other red wines. (It is said that good vines, like Russian poets, must suffer they must be planted in miserable soil and bear minuscule quantities of fruit. Syrah isn't like that. It's a laid-back sort of vine that grows easily and produces abundantly.)

In Australia, appreciation for the grape has been widespread for some time. The first shiraz (remember, they prefer the old name) arrived in Sydney in 1832 as one of some 680 varieties collected in Europe by a self-taught viticulturist named James Busby. Shiraz became Australia's principal red-wine grape and basis of untold millions of gallons of indifferent "burgundy." Today, however, the country's best red wine, Penfold's Grange Hermitage, is 100 percent shiraz. Right behind are the remarkable cabernet-shiraz blends from South Australia.

Americans became accustomed to the name syrah through a popular wine called petite sirah. Twenty years ago, many of California's better wineries included a petite sirah in their line. It was a deep, rich, rough wine that had been used for blending with thinner wines to make jug "burgundy." In fact, petite sirah isn't syrah at all it's a rather coarse grape known as the durif. Petite sirah is still produced in California but genuine syrah has begun to gain ground.

Joseph Phelps Vineyards, in the Napa Valley, produced California's first true syrah in 1974 and later incorporated it in a special line of Rhone-style wines called Vin du Mistral. Beginning in the mid-80's, a group of young California wine makers devoted their skills to producing Rhone-style wines, including syrah. So far, no American Cote-Rotie or Hermitage has emerged, but the wines, particularly the blends incorporating two or three Rhone-style grapes, have been promising. They appear to support their makers' assertion that California is more like the hot Rhone Valley than the often cool, rainy terrain of Bordeaux.

Among the California syrah producers worth seeking out are McDowell Valley Vineyards in Mendocino County, Qupe in Santa Barbara County, Preston Vineyards in Sonoma County and Bonny Doon Vineyard in Santa Cruz County. Bonny Doon uses its syrah in a Chateauneuf-style blend called Le Cigare Volant.

Would Omar Khayyam recognize any of these modern wines made from a grape once named for a Persian city? Probably not he seems to have preferred jug wine and, well, they just don't put good shiraz in jugs anymore.


Local’s Guide to Napa Valley

Napa Valley is in a class by itself among America’s wine regions. There are some 500 wineries in the 16 subappellations that make up the 30-mile-long, 5-mile-wide valley. They include the historic, such as Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, whose Cabernet Sauvignon demolished an array of French Bordeaux in the 1976 Judgment of Paris, thereby putting Napa firmly on the world wine map. They include the very luxe: A few of the wines produced here can go for $1,500 a bottle.

Napa’s popularity and those prices can make the valley seem intimidating to people who just want to spend a fun day tasting wine. The crowds are real—try turning left onto Highway 29 on a busy weekend. And at times, the pretensions have been too. But recent forays have revealed a new Napa—still serious about wine but willing to cut loose a little.

Learn to navigate the valley, and you’ll realize that it’s still the best place in the world to fall in love—deeply, lastingly in love—with wine. Visit, sip, savor. You’ll make your own wine memories, potent and pleasurable.


Wine Berserkers - international wine social media, online community, and discussion

"The private cellar of the late Joseph Phelps, spanning over 5,000 bottles of Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhône, Champagne and Napa wines, is to be auctioned off by Hart Davis Hart this December.

"The collection will be offered at HDH’s sale on 18-19 December. An active collector for decades, he valued provenance, condition and storage highly and all of the wines were either kept at his winery or in a temperature-controlled cellar at his home.

". The collection includes parcels of his own wine including an 18-bottle vertical of his ‘Insignia’ and a 12-bottle case of the 1976 (est. US$4,000-$6,000).

He also acquired wines from friends and neighbours in California and the ale includes the likes of Heitz Cellar’s 1974 Martha’s Vineyard (six btls est. $7,000-$10,000), Stag’s Leap 1973 ‘SLV’ (10 btls est. $9,500-$14,000) and Ridge Vineyard’s 1971 “Eisele’ Cabernet Sauvignon (two btls est. $4,000-$6,000).

"In addition he was a keen collector of European domains and highlights include a bottle of 1865 Château Lafite ($11,000-$17,000), two bottles of 1934 Haut-Brion, a bottle of 1918 La Mission Haut-Brion, bottles of Henri Jayer’s 1980 Richebourg and Vosne-Romanée ‘Beaux Monts’ and 1966 Romanée-Conto from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, 10 bottles of Marius Gentaz-Dervieux’s 1977 Côte Rôtie, Côte Brune, a bottle of 1961 Salon, a bottle of Bollinger’s 1975 Vieilles Vignes Françaises and six bottles of 1898 Sercial Solera Madeira from Henriques & Henriques. ".


Rutherford Hill Winery

Rutherford Hill Winery (founded 1972) is located about a mile east off of Silverado Trail at the end of the same road that winds past the luxurious Relais & Châteaux Auberge du Soleil hillside resort & spa. Rutherford Hill’s motto is “Life looks better from Rutherford hill” and could easily be “Life looks better from Rutherford Hill drinking Merlot”! This winery is a leader in the development of California planted Merlot and today this variety comprises a large portion of their entire production. Conditions near the winery somewhat resemble Pomerol (the Right Bank in Bordeaux) – a prominent region for growing Merlot among other varieties in France. Besides the winery property, they also own property in Pope Valley to the east (still in Napa County).

Rutherford Hill is one of the older wineries in all of the Napa Valley – having been founded in 1972 (making them among the oldest 30 still-existing wineries in the Napa Valley who have been producing continuously since 1972 or earlier). The winery building was constructed in 1968 by Joseph Phelps of Hensel Phelps Construction Company. The property has had three owners during its lifetime – for a short time the winery was owned and operated by Pillsbury Company (the same company that made the Pillsbury dough-boy famous). They called the winery Souverain of Rutherford.

In 1976, a family with extremely deep roots in the Napa Valley and significant connections and contributions to the Napa wine world, the Jaegers led an investment group and in purchasing the winery and renamed it to Rutherford Hill. Founding winemaker & one of the early partners Phil Baxter was at Rutherford Hill for 10 years. The Jaegers operated the winery for some 20 years (significantly increasing production – the height of the production of Rutherford Hill was around 150,000 cases annually – today they produce about 40,000 cases annually). In 1996 the Jaegers sold the winery to the Terlato family, based near Chicago and still the current owners.

The Terlato family operate a large, historically rich and significant wine focused company (Terlato Wine Group) which includes both winery and vineyard ownership, wine import and export and wine marketing and sales. This multi-generational company imports wines from around the world. Besides Rutherford Hill (their first winery purchase), they also own Chimney Rock Winery, located just to the south of here next to the Silverado Trail, produce a very limited high end wine from Napa Valley called Episode, produce Napa and Sonoma Wines under the Terlato Family Vineyards brand, own Klipson Vineyard in the state of Washington’s Red Mountain AVA, own the majority of Sanford Winery in Lompoc and are partnered in Domaine Terlato & Chapoutier in Australia among many other partnerships, brands and holdings.

Still very much family owned, the company was led by visionary Anthony Terlato for many years (he died in July 2020) and today his sons Bill and John are carrying on the family business. Anthony got his start in the world of wine in 1955 working at his father Salvatore Terlato’s wine & spirits shop in Chicago (opened in 1955) called Leading Liquor Marts and then for his father-in-law Anthony Paterno at Pacific Wine Company. Over the years he has played a prominent role in a number of wine related businesses including wine importing – initially focusing on Italy. Often called the ‘father of Pinot Grigio” Anthony was responsible for introducing many American consumers to this variety for the first time. Although as a side note – separately, David Taub of Taub Family/Palm Bay International, arguably was also responsible for his role in bringing Pinot Grigio to the American market.

A highly recommended read for enthusiasts of Rutherford Hill Winery is Taste, a Life in Wine by Anthony Terlato. He describes his early upbringing, his fierce work ethic supported by strong family ties and his remarkable success and accomplishments in more then 50 years of working in the wine industry. His decisions and timing helped launch Lancers Rosé in Chicago, played an integral part in the success of Samuel Adams, Markham Vineyards and numerous other wineries and brands. And for culinary enthusiasts, this book is sprinkled with select family recipes (Italian cuisine of course).

The Olive Grove
And take note of the olive orchard – the trees look quite old and they are. But unlike many new Napa wineries who bring in old olive trees and replant them on their sites, many of the trees in this grove has been here for more then 100 years old and a number of the trees are original plantings. Visitors can take a stroll through part of the total 6 acre grove using the gravel lined path near the picnic area. This grove contains more then 200 hillside trees and the oil produced from these trees is sold in the tasting room.

And this grove has additional more recent history – Lila Jaeger restored some of the trees and produced her first commercial olive oil from the grove in 1991 under the Jaeger Family Olive oil label. Lila (now deceased) also founded the California Olive Oil Council in 1992. While the Jaeger Family olive oil is no longer produced from this particular grove, their award winning olive oil continues to be produced. So you can see this grove is quite special for a number of reasons.

Select Wines
Rutherford Hill produces a wide variety of wines including their flagship varietal – Merlot, a rosé of Merlot and a reserve Merlot. The limited production Winery Exclusive wines tend to be produced in small quantities, but are also wines from varieties often used in blending such as Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc.

The inception of a wine called Ian Tiago involves an engaging story. Winemaker Marisa Taylor discovered that she was pregnant around the same time as her assistant winemaker at the time, Ana Diogo (who has since gone on to become Director of Winemaking at Artesa Winery). Ana is from Portugal. In a round about way, with encouragement from the Terlato family, both women decided to honor both their sons who were born within weeks of each other – and their respective heritage with a red blend, 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and 50% Malbec. This was a wine that was intended to be made only once – but became popular so now it is produced every year – always the same blend. The first vintage of this wine was in 2009.

The 2016 Rutherford Hill Ian Tago is dark ruby in color it shows a sweetness of fruit on the bouquet including black cherry and plum. Hints of cedar and a very subtle note of jalapeno pepper. Slightly savory in its aromatics. Very balanced – shall we say, a crowd pleaser. Plush with a suppleness from start to finish. Flavors of licorice and cherry. A hint of vanilla on the back of the palate along with crushed pepper corn. The tannins are well integrated – finer in their feel while still retaining a bit of tightness in their youth.

The 2012 Terlato Family Vineyards Hill Cardinales’ Peak is a Bordeaux styled red blend. Offers pretty aromatics of ripe raspberry, red currant and chocolate covered cherries. Very food friendly with its energetic vibe of higher acid. Balanced with flavors of cranberry and red cherry. A tartness on the finish – with nicely integrated tannins. This wine has loads of life ahead of it – we tasted it 8 years after vintage and it seemed almost like a younger wine.

There are not many Napa Valley wineries who produce a 100% varietal Petit Verdot. The 2016 Rutherford Hill Petit Verdot offers a diversity of aromas with plenty of fruit including a nice union of plum, red cherry and raspberry, along with black licorice, dried rose petal, dried herbs, dust and hints of pepper. Somewhat savory in its aromatic presentation. Red fruit across the palate with still tight somewhat astringent chewy tannins.

The 2018 Rutherford Hill Chardonnay was sourced from Carneros in the southern part of the Napa Valley. This wine is pale golden in the glass – shows a raciness or foxiness on the bouquet that we sometimes but don’t usually find with Napa Valley wines of this varietal. As the wine breathes, opens to aromas of honeysuckle with hints of dried straw. Nice viscosity – almost oily in its textural feel. Flavors of green apple and hints of popcorn (a butter note we didn’t smell on the bouquet). Flavors of mandarin, some mineral nuances – lingers with a lemon/lime note.

And what is highly rare for a Napa winery – they often have certain older vintages for sale found under their library wine selection.

Hospitality
The tasting room while spacious can get crowded at times – the rectangular bar serves all sides. Tasting space is also located directly outside the tasting room under a canvas type tent this is open year round and during the winter or colder days there is a liberal use of heat lamps (along with faux fires also providing heat). Unlike many wineries in the valley, Rutherford Hill provides bottle service – and guests can elect to order and enjoy a bottle of wine rather then doing a normal tasting flight.

Many Napa wine caves are very similar in appearance barrels of wine will be stacked up inside gunnite coated (a type of sprayed on concrete) tunnels. The caves here are no different, however what sets them apart is that they are one of the oldest of the “modern caves” built in the Napa Valley (dating from the mid 1980’s). In addition, the tunnels are both wide and tall and extend for almost a mile. We were told up to 8,000 barrels are stored within the cave at any one time. As a result, their cave tours are extremely popular during all times of the year, but especially during harvest.

We have taken their cave tour several times – usually allow 90 minutes to 2 hours for the full tour + tasting experience. The tour is extremely general in its presentation of wine related knowledge and best for someone new to wine who wants to combine wine education with Napa history, taste some well made wines at reasonable (for Napa) price points, with a cave experience coupled with some interesting views of the valley from a hillside location.

During the tour you will try a barrel sample (usually of a Merlot) and visit the primary hospitality cave room – which has been used in several TV culinary shows. This room can also be reserved for special events (during one of our visits it was being used as part of a corporate retreat) or even as a proposal spot.

Daily tours are given 3x a day on the weekdays and 4x a day on weekends and accommodate up to 15 guests so if you are visiting during a ‘slow’ time you may be able to reserve tour space that day by buying a “tour pass” from their tasting counter. Merlot blending seminars and several cave experiences and other meals can be reserved on a limited basis. Also check out the private shaded Oak Grove Picnic area, reserved for guests of the winery – with great views of the valley through the trees.

The winery building was in part constructed from recycled old railroad ties. Woodpeckers have an appetite for parts of the outside wood and during your visit, you might hear hawk calls being played on outside speakers. During visits when the calls are not playing, we have noticed woodpeckers hanging out around the wooden building.

On a clear day there are certainly stunning views overlooking the valley floor, rolling hills, and of the Mayacamas mountains on the opposite side of the valley.

We should also mention that for quality of wines, their prices have always been reasonable. For more information and to join one of their wine clubs, visit: www.rutherfordhill.com






OTHER TERLATO DOMESTIC AND OR HISTORICAL SPACES

LET WEL: as time and budget permits, we will follow the heritage of the Terlato family to various places and spaces – and will significantly update this review accordingly over the next several years.

Site of Anthony’s grandfather Antonio’s Floral Shop
(179 Hester Street, NYC)

Original Site of Leading Liquor Marts
(5965 North Clark Street, Chicago)

Original Site of Pacific Wine & Paterno Imports Bottling Facility
(836 South Sherman, Chicago)

Site of Pacific Wine & Paterno Old Distribution Center
(2701 South Western Avenue, Chicago)

Tangley Oaks (International Headquarters) Lake Bluff, Illinois
Visit and notes coming by 2021.

Sanford Winery, Lompoc
Visit and notes coming by 2021.

Sanford Tasting Room, Santa Barbara
Visit and notes coming by 2021.


Steven Spurrier, vintner who turned the world on to Napa Valley wines with a single tasting, dies

California was still awash in the Pepsi Generation in the 1970s and the fruits of the Napa Valley vineyards were largely unknown outside the borders of the Golden State.

But Steven Spurrier helped change all that when he toured the Napa Valley wineries, marveling at the bass notes of the Cabernet Sauvignon and the buttery aftertaste of the Chardonnay his hosts offered him.

Inspired, he plotted out what he thought would be a friendly wine tasting in Paris to commemorate the bicentennial of the American Revolution, the best of the whites and reds in France against the upstarts from Napa Valley. He was certain it would end poorly for the California labels — Chateau Montelena and Stag’s Leap.

The French judges gathered in Paris and, one by one, sampled the Chardonnays and Cabernets in a blind tasting, making notes and jotting down their impressions. Several nodded knowingly when they took a sip of what they were certain was one of the aristocratic French labels — perhaps a Chateau Mouton Rothschild or a Puligny-Montrachet.

When the scores were tabulated, the Napa Valley wines won every category and the judges were left mortified. One asked for her scorecard and notes to be returned, perhaps to distance herself from the contest. Another accused Spurrier of rigging the vote. Still another, the story goes, was sacked from his job as a sommelier, deemed a disgrace to his country.

“It’s hard to describe just how shocking this David versus Goliath outcome was,” wrote George Taber, a Time magazine correspondent and the lone journalist to attend what became known as the “Judgment of Paris.”

“In 1976, France was a massive force in the wine world, and California wasn’t even a blip.”

While French vintners slowly and largely silently digested it all, the outcome of the blind tasting proved to be a seismic moment in California that uncorked a multibillion-dollar industry and elevated the wineries of Napa Valley to the highest rungs of winedom. There are now more than 4,000 wineries in the state, and, by 2019, California’s annual wine sales had reached $43 billion. Tens of millions of cases of the California product are exported worldwide, Europe being the largest landing spot.

For Spurrier, the afterglow of the Judgment of Paris lasted a lifetime. His wine shop near the Seine thrived, he became an in-demand authority and he started his own vineyard in the chalky soil of Dorset in southwest England.

Forever a wine enthusiast, Spurrier died March 8 at age 79 at his home on the Bride Valley Vineyard, the winery announced. A cause of death was not given. He is survived by his wife, Bella, and two children.

Spurrier grew up in wealth in London. A sizable inheritance allowed him to thoroughly enjoy the 1960s. He met Jimi Hendrix, dressed like Austin Powers and hung out in the shops and pubs in Piccadilly Circus. But he insisted it was a single sip of 1908 Cockburn’s port that changed his life forever. He knew then that wine would be his life.

He moved to Paris, a tax exile, and bought a wine shop, Les Caves de la Madelleine, and a barge on the Seine that he converted into a houseboat. His interest in wine took him far beyond the boundaries of France and eventually to Napa Valley in the spring of 1976, when a friend took him on a tour. He avoided better-known producers such as Robert Mondavi and Joseph Phelps and focused on small labels.

A month later, with the blind tasting approaching, Spurrier and his assistants turned their attention to a potential stumbling block — getting the wine into France. French customs officials were well known for halting wine shipments at the border on the general belief that grapes not rooted in France could not possibly yield decent wines.

Spurrier pondered having his assistants and even several vintners smuggle the wines in their suitcases. Finally, a friend persuaded TWA to stow three cases of wine aboard the jet that would take them to Paris.

The jarring results of the Judgment of Paris would probably have gone little noticed if not for Taber, the Time magazine correspondent who attended the event only because he was taking a course in wine tasting. Though only four paragraphs long, the article he wrote was transformative.

“The French had bamboozled the world into thinking that only in France could you make great wines, that only in France did you have the perfect climate, the perfect earth, the perfect grapes,” Taber told Time magazine in 2016, recounting the taste-off.

As the years passed, the near-mythical dimensions of the Judgment of Paris grew and grew until it reached Hollywood and was turned into “Bottle Shock,” a deeply fictionalized account of the tasting in which Spurrier is cast as a wine merchant desperately trying to save his shop with a gimmicky contest. For the sake of suspense, the wine turns a disturbing shade of brown as the hours tick away. And Stag’s Leap, one of the winning wineries of the famed tasting, is written out of the script altogether.

“The only true elements concerning me in the ‘Bottle Shock’ film are my name and those of my two companies,” Spurrier told the Toronto Star after the film premiered at the Sundance Film Festival in 2008.

In 2016 — 40 years after the Paris taste-off — Spurrier returned to Napa Valley to match his Bride Valley English Sparkling Blanc de Blancs against Boisset’s Russian River Valley Brut Blanc de Blancs. The Judgment of Napa, as the event was called, drew wine enthusiasts and vintners from across the valley.


Kyk die video: The Story of Joseph Phelps Vineyards (Julie 2022).


Kommentaar:

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  3. Mostafa

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