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Oistins Vismark en Voedselstalletjies skyfievertoning

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Barbados en die Oistins vis braai saam met Joel Garner

Simon Briggs, wat 'n gids vir die somer in die Karibiese Eilande open, sluit aan by die krieketspeler Joel Garner by 'n Barbados -instelling - die Vrydagvisbraai in Oistins.

Daar is sekere elemente wat gemeen is vir enige Wes -Indiese strandpartytjie: die gretige kielie van sand wat in jou espadrilles kruip, die skerp swaardvis wat op die braai kook, die woeste gons van die calypso -slae.

Tot dusver, so cliché. Maar dan kyk jy op en sien jy 'n ry waardige ouderlinge wat langs die waterkant wals tot by die onwaarskynlike stam van Kenny Rogers. Vir elke kenner van die Karibiese naglewe, is die omgewing onmiddellik herkenbaar: dit is Vrydagaand by Oistins, Barbados.

Die mans word slim aangetrek in pakke uit die jazz-era en gesels wat die dames-wat van 'n sekere ouderdom is-blomme rokke en kappies dra, asof hulle uit 'n patois-aanpassing van Trots en vooroordeel.

Hulle is almal deel van die mees eklektiese aand uit op hierdie of enige ander eiland-'n aand wat altyd begin met 'n opgehoopte bord seekos en 'n ondersteunende rolverdeling van T-hempse toeriste, straatdansers en wit dansers inneem. handskoene van Michael Jackson -nabootsers, maanwandel deur die skare. Die hele menslike lewe is hier, om nie eens te praat van 'n verskeidenheid seediere wat aanloklik op die rooster sit nie.

Daar word gereeld gesê dat die Karibiese kookkuns 'n smeltkroes is wat invloede uit Europa, Afrika en Amerika meng. Dit geld beslis ook die kos by Oistins en die sosiale toneel.

Die dorpie lê aan die suidekant van hierdie traanvormige eiland, 'n paar kilometer ver van die Britse rugsakreisiger se kuierplek Rockley en die gewilde bars van St Lawrence Gap. Tot onlangs was dit die bekendste as 'n reuse -vismark, 'n plek waar Bajans hul haai of barracuda of 'dolfyn' (eintlik dorado) kom koop het, en toe die bus huis toe gehaal het.

Op 'n stadium het iemand 'n sakegeleentheid raakgesien. Waarom nie 'n stalletjie langs die pad oopmaak en 'n paar gebraaide filette op die perseel bedien nie, miskien met 'n bier of twee om dit af te was? Die idee het begin: daar is nou ongeveer 30 eetplekke en die strand lok duisende gaste, drinkers en dansers elke Vrydagaand.

Om uit te vind hoe Oistins homself deur die jare herontdek het, reël ek 'n ete -afspraak met Joel Garner, een van die grootste krieketspelers wat Barbados ooit gemaak het. Garner is gebore in die naburige dorpie Enterprise en was van die begin af gereeld by die visbraai.

'U kan my elke week hier vind', sê hy terwyl ons 'n bord marlyn en Spaanse rys deel. 'Hier is 'n stalletjie genaamd Granny's wat vroeër deur Evelyn Walcott bestuur is - sy was ons ete op skool en sy het verlede jaar 90 geword. sy sal jou nog steeds middagete gee. "

As Garner na Oistins kom, kan hy nog steeds die spook van die dorp sien soos dit eens was. 'U het die polisiekantoor, die mark, die droogwinkel, die pandjieswinkel en die Heilsleër gehad,' verduidelik hy en wys om die beurt langs elke pad. "Om natuurlik nie die van Ouma te vergeet nie. Dit is nou baie anders. Hulle het al die oorspronklike geboue platgeslaan en die strand verleng. Maar ek hou nog steeds daarvan, want daar is altyd iets aan die gang."

Die stootskrapers het aangekom voor een van die groot stukkies van die eiland, die krieketwêreldbeker van 2007. Dit kon 'n tragedie gewees het, maar die Bajans se eer weet dat hulle met styl moet moderniseer. Net soos die Kensington -ovaal - die ou stampveld van Garner - herontdek is sonder om sy karakter of siel te verloor, is die strand langs die vismark omskep in 'n reuse plesiergrond, bekend as die Bay Garden.

Daar is niks halfhartigs aan die nuwe Oistins nie. Die kos is slegs die beginpunt vir 'n maanverligte strandpartytjie, gedeel deur feesgangers van elke ouderdom en ekstraksie. Oumas kook nie net hier nie: hulle trek hul dansskoene aan en trippel langs die sand buite Lexie's Bar.

Net anderkant die volgende palmboom, vind jy 'n bende B-seuns wat op die Bay Garden-verhoog dans. En dan is daar die toeriste: sommige blaai deur die aandenkingsstalletjies, ander steek die pad oor om My Sharona by 'n karaoke -kroeg uit te loer.

Die enigste konstante is die kreoolse kombuis: gebraaide vis met skyfies of rys, plus stewige bygeregte soos broodvrugte, cou cou ('n blaarmoes gemaak van mieliemeel en okra) en macaroni -tert. Die meeste kook word in die buitelug gedoen, in reuse -panne wat duidelik baie diens lewer.

Binne 'n paar minute nadat u bestelling geneem is, kom 'n stewige stuk tonyn of swaardvis, versier met die vurige geelpepersous wat die inwoners soos ketchup gebruik. En dit alles vir 20 Bajan -dollar (£ 6,50) - die bedrag wat u sou bestee aan 'n klein botteltjie water by die luukse restaurante "Platinum Coast" aan die westekant van die eiland.

Ek beveel aan dat u ongeveer 20:00 kom, net betyds om te sien hoe die vlieënde visse braaivis word. Dit gee u die kans om al die swaar koolhidrate te verteer, terwyl u u tone in die branders hang deur een van die tafels langs die waterkant. As u intellektuele stimulasie wil hê, probeer om 'n plaaslike domino uit te daag, 'n spel wat die Bajans benader met die soort glasagtige fokus wat meer gereeld in professionele skaak voorkom.

Garner is 'n vyand vir domino's. Die spel bring sy mededingingsinstink na vore op dieselfde manier as wat 'n bibberige stertdraaier aan die einde van die veld gewoond was. Ondanks sy rekord as 'n vernietiger van Engelse krieketspanne, word hy steeds hoog geag deur die kwartmiljoen toeriste wat elke jaar van die Gatwick -lughawe inkom. Terwyl hy deur die menigte van Oistins sny en soos 'n menslike vuurtoring oor die feesgangers uittroon, word hy gereeld genader vir 'n handdruk of 'n handtekening en reageer hy met 'n tipiese Bajan -genade.

"Ek is lief vir Engeland," sê. "Ek het 'n tuiste daar gehad toe ek landelike krieket gespeel het, en ek gaan nog steeds terug na Somerset om my vriende uit daardie dae te sien. Maar my regte huis is in Enterprise. En dit is fantasties om Oistins voor my deur te hê. As jy op soek is na iewers om Vrydagaand heen te gaan, is dit die plek om te wees. ”

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) bied retoertariewe van Londen Gatwick na Barbados vanaf £ 569,90 insluitend belasting, fooie en heffings. Vir meer inligting oor die eiland, kontak die Barbados Toerisme Owerheid (www.visitbarbados.org) Vir 'n lys van toeroperateurs wat vakansies na hierdie en ander Karibiese eilande verkoop, kontak die Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotelle

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Die Almond Casuarina, wat gewild is onder Engelse krieketspelers van Graham Gooch tot Robin Smith, kyk suidwaarts na die stil, deursigtige water van Maxwell Beach, dit is stapafstand van die bruisende naglewe van St Lawrence Gap en vyf minute se ry van Oistins af. Die hotel met 280 kamers is ingerig rondom twee groot swembaddens en het 'n rustige atmosfeer.

Gaste kan al die fasiliteite van die twee ander Almond -hotelle aan die weskus van Barbados gebruik: die Beach Village en die Beach Club & amp Spa. Met gratis pendelbusse is dit 'n handige manier om 'n oorsig van die eiland te kry.

Sewe nagte, alles ingesluit, kos £ 999 per persoon in September, insluitend vlugte vanaf Gatwick met Virgin Atlantic, oordragte, oordragte en belasting (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Oos van die lughawe is Crane Bay, met sy ruwe kranse en pienk sand. Dit is die suidoostelike kant van die eiland, so die golwe en strome is sterk.


Barbados en die Oistins vis braai saam met Joel Garner

Simon Briggs, wat 'n gids vir die somer in die Karibiese Eilande open, sluit aan by die krieketspeler Joel Garner by 'n Barbados -instelling - die Vrydagvisbraai in Oistins.

Daar is sekere elemente wat gemeen is vir enige Wes -Indiese strandpartytjie: die gretige kielie van sand wat in jou espadrilles kruip, die skerp swaardvis wat op die braai kook, die woeste gons van die calypso -slae.

Tot dusver, so cliché. Maar dan kyk jy op en sien jy 'n ry waardige ouderlinge wat langs die waterkant wals tot by die onwaarskynlike stam van Kenny Rogers. Vir elke kenner van die Karibiese naglewe, is die omgewing onmiddellik herkenbaar: dit is Vrydagaand by Oistins, Barbados.

Die mans word slim aangetrek in pakke uit die jazz-era en gesels die dames-wat van 'n sekere ouderdom is-blomme rokke en kappies, asof hulle uit 'n patois-aanpassing van Trots en vooroordeel.

Hulle is almal deel van die mees eklektiese aand uit op hierdie of enige ander eiland-'n aand wat altyd begin met 'n opgehoopte bord seekos en 'n ondersteunende rolverdeling van T-hemde-toeriste, stralende straatdansers en wit- handskoene van Michael Jackson -nabootsers, maanwandel deur die skare. Die hele menslike lewe is hier, om nie eens te praat van 'n verskeidenheid seediere wat aanloklik op die rooster sit nie.

Daar word gereeld gesê dat die Karibiese kookkuns 'n smeltkroes is wat invloede uit Europa, Afrika en Amerika meng. Dit geld beslis ook die kos by Oistins en die sosiale toneel.

Die dorpie lê aan die suidekant van hierdie traanvormige eiland, 'n paar kilometer ver van die Britse rugsakreisiger se kuierplek Rockley en die gewilde bars van St Lawrence Gap. Tot onlangs was dit die bekendste as 'n reuse -vismark, 'n plek waar Bajans hul haai of barracuda of 'dolfyn' (eintlik dorado) kom koop het, en toe die bus huis toe gehaal het.

Op 'n stadium het iemand 'n sakegeleentheid raakgesien. Waarom nie 'n stalletjie langs die pad oopmaak en 'n paar gebraaide filette op die perseel bedien nie, miskien met 'n bier of twee om dit af te was? Die idee het begin: daar is nou ongeveer 30 eetplekke en die strand lok duisende gaste, drinkers en dansers elke Vrydagaand.

Om uit te vind hoe Oistins homself deur die jare herontdek het, reël ek 'n ete -afspraak met Joel Garner, een van die grootste krieketspelers wat Barbados ooit gemaak het. Garner is gebore in die naburige dorpie Enterprise en was van die begin af gereeld by die visbraai.

'U kan my elke week hier vind', sê hy terwyl ons 'n bord marlyn en Spaanse rys deel. 'Hier is 'n stalletjie genaamd Granny's wat vroeër deur Evelyn Walcott bestuur is - sy was ons ete -dame op skool en sy het verlede jaar 90 geword. sy sal jou steeds middagete gee. "

As Garner na Oistins kom, kan hy nog steeds die spook van die dorp sien soos dit eens was. 'U het die polisiekantoor, die mark, die droogwinkel, die pandjieswinkel en die Heilsleër gehad,' verduidelik hy en wys om die beurt langs elke pad. "Om natuurlik nie die van Ouma te vergeet nie. Dit is nou baie anders. Hulle het al die oorspronklike geboue platgeslaan en die strand verleng. Maar ek hou nog steeds daarvan, want daar is altyd iets aan die gang."

Die stootskrapers het aangekom voor een van die groot stukkies van die eiland, die krieketwêreldbeker van 2007. Dit kon 'n tragedie gewees het, maar die Bajans se eer weet dat hulle met styl moet moderniseer. Net soos die Kensington -ovaal - die ou stampterrein van Garner - herontdek is sonder om sy karakter of siel te verloor, is die strand langs die vismark omskep in 'n reuse plesiergrond bekend as die Bay Garden.

Daar is niks halfhartigs aan die nuwe Oistins nie. Die kos is slegs die beginpunt vir 'n maanverligte strandpartytjie, gedeel deur feesgangers van elke ouderdom en ekstraksie. Oumas kook nie net hier nie: hulle trek hul dansskoene aan en trippel langs die sand buite Lexie's Bar.

Net anderkant die volgende palmboom, vind jy 'n bende B-seuns wat op die Bay Garden-verhoog dans. En dan is daar die toeriste: sommige blaai deur die aandenkingsstalletjies, ander steek die pad oor om My Sharona by 'n karaoke -kroeg uit te loer.

Die enigste konstante is die kreoolse kombuis: gebraaide vis met skyfies of rys, plus stewige bybestellings soos broodvrugte, cou cou ('n blaarmoes gemaak van mieliemeel en okra) en macaroni -tert. Die meeste kook word in die buitelug gedoen, in reuse -panne wat duidelik baie diens lewer.

Binne 'n paar minute nadat u bestelling geneem is, kom 'n stewige stuk tonyn of swaardvis, versier met die vurige geelpepersous wat die inwoners soos ketchup gebruik. En dit alles vir 20 Bajan -dollar (£ 6,50) - die bedrag wat u sou bestee aan 'n klein botteltjie water by die luukse restaurante "Platinum Coast" aan die westekant van die eiland.

Ek beveel aan dat u ongeveer 20:00 kom, net betyds om te sien hoe die vlieënde vis braaivis word. Dit gee u die kans om al die swaar koolhidrate te verteer, terwyl u u tone in die branders hang deur een van die tafels langs die waterkant. As u intellektuele stimulasie wil hê, probeer om 'n plaaslike domino uit te daag, 'n spel wat die Bajans benader met die soort glasagtige fokus wat meer gereeld in professionele skaak voorkom.

Garner is 'n vyand vir domino's. Die spel bring sy mededingingsinstink na vore op dieselfde manier as wat 'n bibberige stertdraaier aan die einde van die veld gewoond was. Ondanks sy rekord as 'n vernietiger van Engelse krieketspanne, word hy steeds hoog geag deur die kwartmiljoen toeriste wat elke jaar van die Gatwick -lughawe inkom. Terwyl hy deur die menigte van Oistins sny en soos 'n menslike vuurtoring oor die feesgangers uittroon, word hy gereeld genader vir 'n handdruk of 'n handtekening en reageer hy met 'n tipiese Bajan -genade.

"Ek is lief vir Engeland," sê. "Ek het 'n tuiste daar gehad toe ek landkrieket gespeel het, en ek gaan nog steeds terug na Somerset om my vriende uit daardie dae te sien. Maar my regte huis is in Enterprise. En dit is fantasties om Oistins voor my deur te hê. As jy op soek is na iewers om Vrydagaand heen te gaan, is dit die plek om te wees. ”

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) bied retoertariewe van Londen Gatwick na Barbados vanaf £ 569,90 insluitend belasting, fooie en heffings. Vir meer inligting oor die eiland, kontak die Barbados Toerisme Owerheid (www.visitbarbados.org) Vir 'n lys van toeroperateurs wat vakansies na hierdie en ander Karibiese eilande verkoop, kontak die Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotelle

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Almond Casuarina, wat gewild is onder Engelse krieketspelers van Graham Gooch tot Robin Smith, kyk suidwaarts na die stil, deursigtige water van Maxwell Beach, dit is loopafstand van die bruisende naglewe van St Lawrence Gap en vyf minute se ry van Oistins af. Die hotel met 280 kamers is ingerig rondom twee groot swembaddens en het 'n rustige atmosfeer.

Gaste kan al die fasiliteite van die twee ander Almond -hotelle aan die weskus van Barbados gebruik: die Beach Village en die Beach Club & amp Spa. Met gratis pendelbusse is dit 'n handige manier om 'n oorsig van die eiland te kry.

Sewe nagte, alles ingesluit, kos £ 999 per persoon in September, insluitend vlugte vanaf Gatwick met Virgin Atlantic, oordragte, oordragte en belasting (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Oos van die lughawe is Crane Bay, met sy ruwe kranse en pienk sand. Dit is die suidoostelike kant van die eiland, so die golwe en strome is sterk.


Barbados en die Oistins vis braai saam met Joel Garner

Simon Briggs, wat 'n gids vir die somer in die Karibiese Eilande open, sluit aan by die krieketspeler Joel Garner by 'n Barbados -instelling - die Vrydagvisbraai in Oistins.

Daar is sekere elemente wat gemeen is vir enige Wes -Indiese strandpartytjie: die sanderige kielie sand wat in jou espadrilles kruip, die skerp swaardvis wat op die braai kook, die woeste gons van die calypso -slae.

Tot dusver, so cliché. Maar dan kyk jy op en sien jy 'n ry waardige ouderlinge wat langs die waterkant wals tot by die onwaarskynlike stam van Kenny Rogers. Vir elke kenner van die Karibiese naglewe, is die omgewing onmiddellik herkenbaar: dit is Vrydagaand by Oistins, Barbados.

Die mans word slim aangetrek in pakke uit die jazz-era en gesels die dames-wat van 'n sekere ouderdom is-blomme rokke en kappies, asof hulle uit 'n patois-aanpassing van Trots en vooroordeel.

Hulle is almal deel van die mees eklektiese aand uit op hierdie of enige ander eiland-'n aand wat altyd begin met 'n opgehoopte bord seekos en 'n ondersteunende rolverdeling van T-hemde-toeriste, stralende straatdansers en wit- handskoene van Michael Jackson -nabootsers, maanwandel deur die skare. Die hele menslike lewe is hier, om nie eens te praat van 'n verskeidenheid seediere wat aanloklik op die rooster sit nie.

Daar word gereeld gesê dat die Karibiese kookkuns 'n smeltkroes is wat invloede uit Europa, Afrika en Amerika meng. Dit geld beslis ook die kos by Oistins en die sosiale toneel.

Die dorpie lê aan die suidekant van hierdie traanvormige eiland, 'n paar kilometer ver van die Britse rugsakreisiger se kuierplek Rockley en die gewilde bars van St Lawrence Gap. Tot onlangs was dit die bekendste as 'n reuse -vismark, 'n plek waar Bajans hul haai of barracuda of 'dolfyn' (eintlik dorado) kom koop het, en toe die bus huis toe gehaal het.

Op 'n stadium het iemand 'n sakegeleentheid raakgesien. Waarom nie 'n stalletjie langs die pad oopmaak en 'n paar gebraaide filette op die perseel bedien nie, miskien met 'n bier of twee om dit af te was? Die idee het begin: daar is nou ongeveer 30 eetplekke en die strand lok duisende gaste, drinkers en dansers elke Vrydagaand.

Om uit te vind hoe Oistins homself deur die jare herontdek het, reël ek 'n ete -afspraak met Joel Garner, een van die grootste krieketspelers wat Barbados ooit gemaak het. Garner is gebore in die naburige dorpie Enterprise en was van die begin af gereeld by die visbraai.

'U kan my elke week hier vind', sê hy terwyl ons 'n bord marlyn en Spaanse rys deel. 'Hier is 'n stalletjie genaamd Granny's wat vroeër deur Evelyn Walcott bestuur is - sy was ons ete -dame op skool en sy het verlede jaar 90 geword. sy sal jou nog steeds middagete gee. "

As Garner by Oistins kom, kan hy nog steeds die spook van die dorp sien soos dit eens was. 'U het die polisiekantoor, die mark, die droogwinkel, die pandjieswinkel en die Heilsleër gehad,' verduidelik hy en wys om die beurt langs elke pad na die geheue. "Om natuurlik nie die van Ouma te vergeet nie. Dit is nou baie anders. Hulle het al die oorspronklike geboue platgeslaan en die strand verleng. Maar ek hou nog steeds daarvan, want daar is altyd iets aan die gang."

Die stootskrapers het aangekom voor een van die groot stukkies van die eiland, die krieketwêreldbeker van 2007. Dit kon 'n tragedie gewees het, maar die Bajans se eer weet dat hulle met styl moet moderniseer. Net soos die Kensington -ovaal - die ou stampveld van Garner - herontdek is sonder om sy karakter of siel te verloor, is die strand langs die vismark omskep in 'n reuse plesiergrond, bekend as die Bay Garden.

Daar is niks halfhartigs aan die nuwe Oistins nie. Die kos is slegs die beginpunt vir 'n maanverligte strandpartytjie, gedeel deur feesgangers van elke ouderdom en ekstraksie. Oumas kook nie net hier nie: hulle trek hul dansskoene aan en trippel langs die sand buite Lexie's Bar.

Net anderkant die volgende palmboom, vind jy 'n bende B-seuns wat op die Bay Garden-verhoog dans. En dan is daar die toeriste: sommige blaai deur die aandenkingsstalletjies, ander steek die pad oor om My Sharona by 'n karaoke -kroeg uit te loer.

Die enigste konstante is die kreoolse kombuis: gebraaide vis met skyfies of rys, plus stewige bybestellings soos broodvrugte, cou cou ('n blaarmoes gemaak van mieliemeel en okra) en macaroni -tert. Die meeste kook word in die buitelug gedoen, in reuse -panne wat duidelik baie diens lewer.

Binne 'n paar minute nadat u bestelling geneem is, kom 'n stewige stuk tonyn of swaardvis, versier met die vurige geelpepersous wat die inwoners soos ketchup gebruik. En dit alles vir 20 Bajan -dollar (£ 6,50) - die bedrag wat u sou bestee aan 'n klein botteltjie water by die luukse restaurante "Platinum Coast" aan die westekant van die eiland.

Ek beveel aan dat u ongeveer 20:00 kom, net betyds om te sien hoe die vlieënde visse braaivis word. Dit gee u die kans om al die swaar koolhidrate te verteer, terwyl u u tone in die branders hang deur een van die tafels langs die waterkant. As u intellektuele stimulasie wil hê, probeer om 'n plaaslike domino uit te daag, 'n spel wat die Bajans benader met die soort glasagtige fokus wat meer gereeld in professionele skaak voorkom.

Garner is 'n vyand vir domino's. Die spel bring sy mededingingsinstink na vore op dieselfde manier as wat 'n bibberige stertdraaier aan die einde van die veld gewoond was. Ondanks sy rekord as 'n vernietiger van Engelse krieketspanne, word hy steeds hoog geag deur die kwartmiljoen toeriste wat elke jaar van die Gatwick -lughawe inkom. Terwyl hy deur die menigte van Oistins sny en soos 'n menslike vuurtoring oor die feesgangers tuimel, word hy gereeld genader vir 'n handdruk of 'n handtekening en reageer met 'n tipiese Bajan -genade.

"Ek is lief vir Engeland," sê. "Ek het 'n tuiste daar gehad toe ek landkrieket gespeel het, en ek gaan nog steeds terug na Somerset om my vriende uit daardie dae te sien. Maar my regte huis is in Enterprise. En dit is fantasties om Oistins voor my deur te hê. As jy op soek is na iewers om Vrydagaand heen te gaan, is dit die plek om te wees. ”

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) bied retoertariewe van Londen Gatwick na Barbados vanaf £ 569,90 insluitend belasting, fooie en heffings. Vir meer inligting oor die eiland, kontak die Barbados Toerisme Owerheid (www.visitbarbados.org) Vir 'n lys van toeroperateurs wat vakansies na hierdie en ander Karibiese eilande verkoop, kontak die Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotelle

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Die Almond Casuarina, wat gewild is onder Engelse krieketspelers van Graham Gooch tot Robin Smith, kyk suidwaarts na die stil, deursigtige water van Maxwell Beach, dit is stapafstand van die bruisende naglewe van St Lawrence Gap en vyf minute se ry van Oistins af. Die hotel met 280 kamers is ingerig rondom twee groot swembaddens en het 'n rustige atmosfeer.

Gaste kan al die fasiliteite van die twee ander Almond -hotelle aan die weskus van Barbados gebruik: die Beach Village en die Beach Club & amp Spa. Met gratis pendelbusse is dit 'n handige manier om 'n oorsig van die eiland te kry.

Sewe nagte, alles ingesluit, kos £ 999 per persoon in September, insluitend vlugte vanaf Gatwick met Virgin Atlantic, oordragte, oordragte en belasting (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Oos van die lughawe is Crane Bay, met sy ruwe kranse en pienk sand. Dit is die suidoostelike kant van die eiland, so die golwe en strome is sterk.


Barbados en die Oistins vis braai saam met Joel Garner

Simon Briggs, wat 'n gids vir die somer in die Karibiese Eilande open, sluit aan by die krieketspeler Joel Garner by 'n Barbados -instelling - die Vrydagvisbraai in Oistins.

Daar is sekere elemente wat gemeen is vir enige Wes -Indiese strandpartytjie: die sanderige kielie sand wat in jou espadrilles kruip, die skerp swaardvis wat op die braai kook, die woeste gons van die calypso -slae.

Tot dusver, so cliché. Maar dan kyk jy op en sien jy 'n ry waardige ouderlinge wat langs die waterkant wals tot by die onwaarskynlike stam van Kenny Rogers. Vir elke kenner van die Karibiese naglewe, is die omgewing onmiddellik herkenbaar: dit is Vrydagaand by Oistins, Barbados.

Die mans word slim aangetrek in pakke uit die jazz-era en gesels wat die dames-wat van 'n sekere ouderdom is-blomme rokke en kappies dra, asof hulle uit 'n patois-aanpassing van Trots en vooroordeel.

Hulle is almal deel van die mees eklektiese aand uit op hierdie of enige ander eiland-'n aand wat altyd begin met 'n opgehoopte bord seekos en 'n ondersteunende rolverdeling van T-hempse toeriste, straatdansers en wit dansers inneem. handskoene van Michael Jackson -nabootsers, maanwandel deur die skare. Die hele menslike lewe is hier, om nie eens te praat van 'n verskeidenheid seediere wat aanloklik op die rooster sit nie.

Daar word gereeld gesê dat die Karibiese kookkuns 'n smeltkroes is wat invloede uit Europa, Afrika en Amerika meng. Dit geld beslis ook die kos by Oistins en die sosiale toneel.

Die dorpie lê aan die suidekant van hierdie traanvormige eiland, 'n paar kilometer ver van die Britse rugsakreisiger se kuierplek Rockley en die gewilde bars van St Lawrence Gap. Tot onlangs was dit die bekendste as 'n reuse -vismark, 'n plek waar Bajans hul haai of barracuda of 'dolfyn' (eintlik dorado) kom koop het, en toe die bus huis toe gehaal het.

Op 'n stadium het iemand 'n sakegeleentheid raakgesien. Waarom nie 'n stalletjie langs die pad oopmaak en 'n paar gebraaide filette op die perseel bedien nie, miskien met 'n bier of twee om dit af te was? Die idee het begin: daar is nou ongeveer 30 eetplekke en die strand lok duisende gaste, drinkers en dansers elke Vrydagaand.

Om uit te vind hoe Oistins homself deur die jare herontdek het, reël ek 'n ete -afspraak met Joel Garner, een van die grootste krieketspelers wat Barbados ooit gemaak het. Garner is gebore in die naburige dorpie Enterprise en was van die begin af gereeld by die visbraai.

'U kan my elke week hier vind', sê hy terwyl ons 'n bord marlyn en Spaanse rys deel. 'Hier is 'n stalletjie genaamd Granny's wat vroeër deur Evelyn Walcott bestuur is - sy was ons ete op skool en sy het verlede jaar 90 geword. sy sal jou steeds middagete gee. "

As Garner by Oistins kom, kan hy nog steeds die spook van die dorp sien soos dit eens was. 'U het die polisiekantoor, die mark, die droogwinkel, die pandjieswinkel en die Heilsleër gehad,' verduidelik hy en wys om die beurt langs elke pad na die geheue. "Om natuurlik nie die van Ouma te vergeet nie. Dit is nou baie anders. Hulle het al die oorspronklike geboue platgeslaan en die strand verleng. Maar ek hou nog steeds daarvan, want daar is altyd iets aan die gang."

Die stootskrapers het aangekom voor een van die groot stukkies van die eiland, die krieketwêreldbeker van 2007. Dit kon 'n tragedie gewees het, maar die Bajans se eer weet dat hulle met styl moet moderniseer. Net soos die Kensington -ovaal - die ou stampveld van Garner - herontdek is sonder om sy karakter of siel te verloor, is die strand langs die vismark omskep in 'n reuse plesiergrond, bekend as die Bay Garden.

Daar is niks halfhartigs aan die nuwe Oistins nie. Die kos is slegs die beginpunt vir 'n maanverligte strandpartytjie, gedeel deur feesgangers van elke ouderdom en ekstraksie. Oumas kook nie net hier nie: hulle trek hul dansskoene aan en trippel langs die sand buite Lexie's Bar.

Net anderkant die volgende palmboom, vind jy 'n bende B-seuns wat op die Bay Garden-verhoog dans. En dan is daar die toeriste: sommige blaai deur die aandenkingsstalletjies, ander steek die pad oor om My Sharona by 'n karaoke -kroeg uit te loer.

Die enigste konstante is die kreoolse kombuis: gebraaide vis met skyfies of rys, plus stewige bygeregte soos broodvrugte, cou cou ('n blaarmoes gemaak van mieliemeel en okra) en macaroni -tert. Die meeste kook word in die buitelug gedoen, in reuse -panne wat duidelik baie diens lewer.

Binne 'n paar minute nadat u bestelling geneem is, kom 'n stewige stuk tonyn of swaardvis, versier met die vurige geelpepersous wat die inwoners soos ketchup gebruik. En dit alles vir 20 Bajan -dollar (£ 6,50) - die bedrag wat u sou bestee aan 'n klein botteltjie water by die luukse restaurante "Platinum Coast" aan die westekant van die eiland.

Ek beveel aan dat u ongeveer 20:00 kom, net betyds om te sien hoe die vlieënde visse braaivis word. Dit gee u die kans om al die swaar koolhidrate te verteer, terwyl u u tone in die branders hang deur een van die tafels langs die waterkant. As u intellektuele stimulasie wil hê, probeer om 'n plaaslike domino uit te daag, 'n spel wat die Bajans benader met die soort glasagtige fokus wat meer gereeld in professionele skaak voorkom.

Garner is 'n vyand vir domino's. Die spel bring sy mededingingsinstink na vore op dieselfde manier as wat 'n bibberige stertdraaier aan die einde van die veld gewoond was. Ondanks sy rekord as 'n vernietiger van Engelse krieketspanne, word hy steeds hoog geag deur die kwartmiljoen toeriste wat elke jaar van die Gatwick -lughawe inkom. Terwyl hy deur die menigte van Oistins sny en soos 'n menslike vuurtoring oor die feesgangers uittroon, word hy gereeld genader vir 'n handdruk of 'n handtekening en reageer hy met 'n tipiese Bajan -genade.

"Ek is lief vir Engeland," sê. "Ek het 'n tuiste daar gehad toe ek landelike krieket gespeel het, en ek gaan nog steeds terug na Somerset om my vriende uit daardie dae te sien. Maar my regte huis is in Enterprise. En dit is fantasties om Oistins voor my deur te hê. As jy op soek is na iewers om Vrydagaand heen te gaan, is dit die plek om te wees. ”

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) bied retoertariewe van Londen Gatwick na Barbados vanaf £ 569,90 insluitend belasting, fooie en heffings. Vir meer inligting oor die eiland, kontak die Barbados Toerisme Owerheid (www.visitbarbados.org) Vir 'n lys van toeroperateurs wat vakansies na hierdie en ander Karibiese eilande verkoop, kontak die Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotelle

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Die Almond Casuarina, wat gewild is onder Engelse krieketspelers van Graham Gooch tot Robin Smith, kyk suidwaarts na die stil, deursigtige water van Maxwell Beach, dit is stapafstand van die bruisende naglewe van St Lawrence Gap en vyf minute se ry van Oistins af. Die hotel met 280 kamers is ingerig rondom twee groot swembaddens en het 'n rustige atmosfeer.

Gaste kan al die fasiliteite van die twee ander Almond -hotelle aan die weskus van Barbados gebruik: die Beach Village en die Beach Club & amp Spa. Met gratis pendelbusse is dit 'n handige manier om 'n oorsig van die eiland te kry.

Sewe nagte, alles ingesluit, kos £ 999 per persoon in September, insluitend vlugte vanaf Gatwick met Virgin Atlantic, oordragte, oordragte en belasting (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Oos van die lughawe is Crane Bay, met sy ruwe kranse en pienk sand. Dit is die suidoostelike kant van die eiland, so die golwe en strome is sterk.


Barbados en die Oistins vis braai saam met Joel Garner

Simon Briggs, wat 'n gids vir die somer in die Karibiese Eilande open, sluit aan by die krieketspeler Joel Garner by 'n Barbados -instelling - die Vrydagvisbraai in Oistins.

Daar is sekere elemente wat gemeen is vir enige Wes -Indiese strandpartytjie: die gretige kielie van sand wat in jou espadrilles kruip, die skerp swaardvis wat op die braai kook, die woeste gons van die calypso -slae.

Tot dusver, so cliché. Maar dan kyk jy op en sien jy 'n ry waardige ouderlinge wat langs die waterkant wals tot by die onwaarskynlike stam van Kenny Rogers. Vir elke kenner van die Karibiese naglewe, is die omgewing onmiddellik herkenbaar: dit is Vrydagaand by Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. With free shuttle buses, it's a handy way to get an overview of the island.

Seven nights all-inclusive cost from £999 per person in September, including flights from Gatwick with Virgin Atlantic, resort transfers, taxes and surcharges (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

To the east of the airport is Crane Bay, with its rugged cliffs and pink sand. This is the south-eastern side of the island, so the waves and currents are strong.


Barbados and the Oistins fish fry with Joel Garner

Opening a guide to summer in the Caribbean, Simon Briggs joins the cricketer Joel Garner at a Barbados institution – the Friday fish fry in Oistins.

There are certain elements common to any West Indian beach party: the gritty tickle of sand creeping into your espadrilles, the sharp tang of swordfish cooking on the barbecue, the frantic buzz of the calypso beats.

So far, so clichéd. But then you look up and see a line of dignified elders, waltzing along the waterfront to the unlikely strains of Kenny Rogers. For any connoisseur of Caribbean nightlife, the setting would be instantly recognisable: it is Friday night at Oistins, Barbados.

The men are smartly turned out in jazz-era suits and spats the ladies – who are of a certain age – wear floral dresses and bonnets, as if they have wandered out of some patois adaptation of Trots en vooroordeel.

They are all part of the most eclectic night out on this or any other island – a night that invariably begins with a heaped plate of seafood, and takes in a supporting cast of T-shirted tourists, body-popping street-dancers and white-gloved Michael Jackson impersonators, moonwalking through the crowd. All human life is here, not to mention a variety of marine creatures, sizzling enticingly on the grill.

It is often said that Caribbean cuisine is a melting pot, mixing influences from Europe, Africa and America. This is certainly true of the food at Oistins and the social scene, too.

The village sits at the southern end of this teardrop-shaped island, a couple of miles along from the British backpackers' hang-out of Rockley and the popular bars of St Lawrence Gap. Until quite recently, it was best known as a giant fish market, a place where Bajans came to buy their shark or barracuda or "dolphin" (actually dorado), then caught the bus home.

At some point, somebody spotted a business opportunity. Why not open a roadside stall and serve up a few fried fillets on site, maybe with a beer or two to wash them down? The idea took off there are now 30 or so eateries and the beachfront attracts thousands of diners, drinkers and dancers every Friday night.

To find out how Oistins has reinvented itself over the years, I arrange a dinner date with Joel Garner, one of the greatest cricketers Barbados ever produced. Garner was born in the neighbouring village of Enterprise and was a regular at the Friday-night fish fry from the outset.

"You can find me here every week," he says, as we share a plate of marlin and Spanish rice. "There's a stall here called Granny's that used to be run by Evelyn Walcott – she was our dinner lady at school and she turned 90 last year. I still keep in touch with Miss Walcott, because even if you didn't have any lunch money she would still give you lunch."

When Garner comes to Oistins, he can still see the ghost of the village as it once was. "You had the police station, the market, the dry-goods store, the pawnshop and the Salvation Army," he explains, pointing along the road at each memory in turn. "Not forgetting Granny's, of course. It's very different now. They've knocked down all the original buildings and extended the beach. But I still love it because there is always something going on."

The bulldozers arrived ahead of one of the island's big set pieces, the cricket World Cup of 2007. It could have been a tragedy, but to the Bajans' credit, they know how to modernise with style. Just as the Kensington Oval – Garner's old stamping ground – was reinvented without losing any of its character or soul, so the beachfront next to the fish market has been transformed into a giant pleasure ground known as the Bay Garden.

There is nothing half-hearted about the new Oistins. The food is only the starting point for a moonlit beach party, shared by revellers of every age and extraction. Grannies don't just do the cooking here: they pull on their dancing shoes and go tripping along the sand outside Lexie's Bar.

Just beyond the next palm tree, you will find a gang of B-boys break dancing on the Bay Garden stage. And then there are the tourists: some browsing the souvenir stalls, others crossing the road to bellow out My Sharona at a karaoke bar.

The one constant is the creole cuisine: fried fish with chips or rice, plus hearty side-orders such as breadfruit, cou cou (a leafy mush made from cornmeal and okra) and macaroni pie. Most of the cooking takes place in the open air, in giant pans that have clearly seen plenty of service.

Within a few minutes of your order being taken, a hefty chunk of tuna or swordfish arrives, garnished with the fiery yellow pepper sauce that the locals use like ketchup. And all for 20 Bajan dollars (£6.50) – the sort of sum you would spend on a tiny bottle of water at the fancy "Platinum Coast" restaurants on the west side of the island.

I would recommend arriving at about 8pm, just in time to see the flying fish become frying fish. That gives you a chance to digest all those heavy carbohydrates, while dangling your toes in the surf from one of the trestle tables placed along the water's edge. If you want some intellectual stimulation, try challenging a local at dominoes, a game that the Bajans approach with the sort of glassy-eyed focus more often found in professional chess.

Garner is a fiend for dominoes. The game brings out his competitive instinct in the same way that a quivering tail-ender used to at the far end of the pitch. Despite his track record as a destroyer of English cricket teams, he is still held in high regard by the quarter of a million tourists who buzz in from Gatwick airport every year. As he cuts through the Oistins throng, towering over the revellers like a human lighthouse, he is regularly approached for a handshake or an autograph and responds with typically Bajan grace.

"I love England," says. "I had a home there when I was playing county cricket and I still go back to Somerset to see my friends from those days. But my real home is in Enterprise. And it's fantastic having Oistins on my doorstep. If you're looking for somewhere to go on Friday night, this is the place to be."

Amper daar

British Airways (0844 4930787 www.ba.com) offers return fares from London Gatwick to Barbados from £569.90 including taxes, fees and charges. For further information on the island, contact the Barbados Tourism Authority (www.visitbarbados.org) For a list of tour operators selling holidays to this and other Caribbean islands, contact the Caribbean Tourism Organization (www.caribbeantravel.com)

Hotels

Almond Casuarina Beach Resort

Popular with English cricketers from Graham Gooch to Robin Smith, the Almond Casuarina faces south onto the quiet, transparent waters of Maxwell Beach it's walking distance from the buzzing nightlife of St Lawrence Gap and a five-minute drive from Oistins. The 280-room hotel is arranged around two large swimming pools and has a thoroughly laid-back ambience.

Guests can use all the facilities of the two other Almond hotels on the west coast of Barbados: the Beach Village and the Beach Club & Spa. Met gratis pendelbusse is dit 'n handige manier om 'n oorsig van die eiland te kry.

Sewe nagte, alles ingesluit, kos £ 999 per persoon in September, insluitend vlugte vanaf Gatwick met Virgin Atlantic, oordragte, oordragte en belasting (620 3600 www.almondresorts.com)

Oos van die lughawe is Crane Bay, met sy ruwe kranse en pienk sand. Dit is die suidoostelike kant van die eiland, so die golwe en strome is sterk.


Kyk die video: Street artists at Oistins Fish Fry - Barbados (Julie 2022).


Kommentaar:

  1. Telfour

    With you I agree completely.

  2. Arundel

    With talent...

  3. Ron

  4. Kasho

    This is the excellent idea



Skryf 'n boodskap